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, by Susan Casey
Download Ebook , by Susan Casey
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Product details
File Size: 9349 KB
Print Length: 434 pages
Publisher: Anchor (September 14, 2010)
Publication Date: September 14, 2010
Language: English
ASIN: B003F3PLGM
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Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#203,857 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
I highly enjoyed this book,I thought her use of big wave surfers kept a book about waves lively.She had my attention the entire book,I never knew what would happen next.Would have been nice with more info about rogues,just because I find them interesting,but it turns out even the experts don't know a whole lot.For a while I thought she had a crush on Laird Hamilton,but gradually assumed she just admired all big wave surfers.She was very knowledgeable about their sport,the ups and downs.This book is about two subjects-big wave surfing and the science of waves.The subjects intertwine of course and I think she did it masterfully.Sure she uses flowery language a time or two,but I took that in stride.Maybe women just like more adjectives in their non-fiction than men.She also warned about climate change and the changing of storms.There was much knowledge to be gleaned in this one.
I agree with several of the previous reviewers. The Wave albeit well written is 1/3 about wave science/historical events and 2/3 "surf city" - it appeared that Susan was more enamored with Hamilton and his accomplished surfer colleagues etc. than depth in actual oceanographic wave behavior. That said - the relative contribution of what she did elaborate on wave science and historical contexts was quite good. But there was SO MUCH diversion to beach personalities and tribulations I really skimmed over all of these chapters to the far more interesting segments. As far as i am concerned the Devil's Teeth is her most excellent signature work (not Wave!)
I grew up swimming in the ocean during the summers. I got boiled and roughed up more than a few times, and I have always had a deep respect for the power of waves. As a young adult, I was at the North Shore of Hawaii one day when the waves were large but not enormous (about 20-30 footers), and I was bowled over. It is an experience I can never forget. Because of that, I have been fascinated by imagining waves much larger than those (which seems almost incomprehensible). Casey does an amazing job of conveying what enormous waves are like, both in their power and their immensity. Her research and interviews are compelling, and unlike some readers who have commented on this being an ode to Laird Hamilton, I found those parts riveting, which many characters, not just Laird. This is a great book. Scary, provocative, and a nonfiction page-turner.
"Except for luminous glints of turquoise at its peak, the wave was sapphire blue, gin clear, and flecked with white. If heaven were a color, it would be tinted like this." This quote is Susan Casey's description of seeing a wave close-up at Jaws, a Maui surf spot known for huge dangerous waves.At fifteen, my father gave me a 9ft Ole surfboard--it was too big for me and I could barely drag it down the beach. I wanted to look cool with it under my arm like all the surfers did and I wanted more than anything to be the girl that the Beach Boys sang about in Surfer Girl. It wasn't going to happen, but that big board attracted surfers who wanted to help me get it into the water and teach me how to paddle out. I loved watching them catch the waves. Years later my love affair with Ocean waves and surfers really took off when I watched early surf films and saw the shots Greenough took inside the tube of pristine waves; their glassy faces a peek into another world. So when I heard about Susan Casey's book, The Wave, I had to read it and she didn't disappoint. It is the perfect blend of surf stories from some of the best big wave riders and the guys who help them make it out to those waves along with the guys who help in the rescues when the waves eat them up and spit them out; and a look into the history, physics, and science of freak monster waves that appear out of nowhere and cause massive destruction. Read this book and it will change the way you look at the seas around the world. An entertaining and educational 5 star read for anyone who loves the Ocean.
I also found the book to be a little too melodramatic and hero worshiping. I would have liked a little more regarding the science, as I am a beginning windsurfer, so I did have a interest in better understanding the ocean.It seems we have a little more information on rouge waves than the Tligits who believe the source was a sea monster named Kah Lituya,who shook the bay when upset and turned those he killed into grizzly bears looking for other victims.However, in the end we still do not understand what we do not understand to have a thory about "non linear waves." Easier to understand the sea monster theory.She does visit various organization and scientists, but does not bring the information together. Perhaps it is due to all the research is independent and not coordinated.There are many interesting areas, where she touches on, but, it leaves you asking for more. You could open any chapter and begin to read, there is no cohesiveness or message to the total.Further, the book is filled with various lines suited for a samurai movie.I realized it would be hard to find a group who had been through more together. They had staked their territory in an uncharted realm, a place where the ocean didn't necessarily allow people to be.He didn't hype his achievements or lose his bearing. The more amzaing his feats were, the less he said about them.If I scare myself once every day, I'm a better person.It helps to have that little jolt of perspective that life's fragile.Fear is powerful. You get a lot of energy from fear. Without fear, humans wouldn't have survived. Maybe I'm the most scared.And, at the end, it left another question for me. Is big wave riding a sport? Although, she strongly notes that Laird hates Billabong's commercialization of big wave riding, primarily as it draws untrained surfers into greater dangers, she does seem to endorse the event.
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